Black asymmetric zipper tank top with nude mesh insert from Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 1997 'La Poupee' collection. Zipper can be worn open or closed. The spring 1997 show, presented on a 100 foot catwalk covered in water, was a reference to Hans Bellmer's photography, where he deconstructed and reconstructed dummies to look like distorted dolls. McQueen used this to make the human body appear as a doll-like puppet. He had just had his debut haute couture collection for Givenchy to intense criticism from the French press, which called the Jason and the Golden Fleece inspired show everything from 'derivative' to 'tacky Vegas'. Models walked down the water-filled runway with creations by Shuan Leane and Philip Treacy on their heads, dressed in shimmering and patterned garments. Many pieces distorted the body of the model (two examples are shown above). The most controversial piece of 'contortion' jewelry in the show was worn by black supermodel Debra Shaw (shown above). While McQueen said that the manacle she wore was used in order to make her movements jerky and mechanical, like a doll or puppet, it was incredibly hard to watch because of its obvious connotations to slavery. McQueen once again was accused of misogyny. He was becoming increasingly famous for his use of 'shock tactics', and this particular moment remained one of his most controversial throughout his career.
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